Cappadocia, the land of troglodytes, ancient underground cities and home to some of Turkey’s most spectacular scenery. We took a couple of days out to enjoy our surroundings including a very bleary-eyed group who met at 4.45am to try hot-air ballooning. Well, what can we say to do it justice, it was definitely worth getting up at such an unsociable time, the views were breath-taking and the sight of 40 hot air balloons drifting quietly across the fantastic landscape of incredible rock formations was amazing. Time was also spent exploring the minor dirt tracks that criss-cross the landscape and treks to experience the underground world of the troglodytes.
The snow-topped mountains were looking ominous in the distance as we left our Cappadocian Cave Hotel which had been not only surprisingly cosy but also luxurious. The cute puppy which we’d nicknamed Scrappy Doo after Scooby’s nephew was unhappy to see us go, we were tempted to adopt him as Silk Road mascot and smuggle him in our luggage, but were worried that where we are going some weeks down the road he might end up in the cooking pot!
We wound our way out of the village down narrow cobbled streets, so narrow in fact that some riders had thought they were merely footpaths; which had created some confusion with finding our particular cave hotel – did we mention that almost every other hotel is a cave one?
We found ourselves at a thermal spring resort with a difference, the water was teeming with flesh-eating fish, having assured us they’re not piranhas and that actually, they’re good for you, we tentatively lowered ourselves into the warm bubbling water. This experience was not for the squeamish or ticklish and we soon found out who had the highest tolerance to being nibbled as the fish ate away at the dead skin cells on our bodies.
Onward into the mountains and cosy log cabins at the end of the day as we rested our weary bones following a long haul over the high altitude passes in cold weather. We’d also had some new experiences today when Colin and Shirley, were pulled in for speeding – thus earning Colin the nickname Boy Racer Richardson and a speeding ticket which he’s brandishing as a badge of honour, as up to now he’d been one of our more sedate riders. Obviously the rest of us, observing what had happened to him rode past demurely. All except one, yep, Mr Lucky also got hauled in and managed to get a double fine.
One more day of mountain riding took us along a fantastic river valley where the narrow dirt track hugged the steep walls, the track varied from gravel to mud and small river crossings, an enjoyable challenge for most, including a dark tunnel full of mud and construction lorries. We’re beginning to resemble overland adventurers as we looked at each other’s mud splattered clothing. Tyre huggers were beginning to get lost and by the end of the day three had been removed either intentionally or otherwise. The fort at Ani near Kars gave us an opportunity to explore the ruins dating through several centuries and to look across at Armenia.
Our final stop in Turkey was at Dogubeazit or Doggy Biscuit as it’s more affectionately known. The last town in Turkey and the place to watch the sun set over Mount Ararat, for women to buy the all important chadors for covering up in Iran and for some, most importantly toast farewell to secular countries with our last alcoholic drinks for some time. Tomorrow, we cross over to…… Iran.
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